Katharine E. Hamnett is an English fashion designer best known for her political t-shirts and her ethical business philosophy.
Katharine Eleanor Appleton was born on 16 August 1947. With a father in the R.A.F she lives in France, Sweden, Romania and England and attended ten different schools including Cheltenham Ladies College.
From 1964 to 1965 she studied fashion at Konstfackskolan Stockholm.
From 1965 to 1975 he studied BA Fashion and Textiles at Central Saint Martins College in London.
On leaving college she sets up her own fashion business TUTTABANKEM with her college friend Anne Buck. They held shows at the London designer collections and the pret-a-porter in Paris.
In 1975 she held her first fashion show at the garage Covent Garden. Then she works as a freelance designer in Paris, Milan, New York and Hong Kong.
Hamnett founded the Katharine E. Hamnett clothier in 1979.
In 1981 she introduced menswear and the sales boomed worldwiede.
Joseph opened the Chinese Laundry selling KATHARINE HAMNETT washed cottons in 1983.
In the early 1980s Hamnett’s oversized t-shirts with large block letter slogans were adopted by pop bands including Wham!, with her “CHOOSE LIFE” slogan prominently displayed in the music video for “Wake Me Up Before You Go Go” and somewhat less prominently in Queen’s video for Hammer To Fall (worn by Roger Taylor).
In 1984, ZTT’s Paul Morley designed a series of “FRANKIE SAY…” T-shirts to promote the record label’s chart act Frankie Goes to Hollywood (FGTH). Morley has stated that these designs were consciously based on Hamnett’s slogan T-shirts: “What persuaded me was reading Katharine Hamnett saying she wanted the T-shirts ripped off, which reminded me of Mark P, saying he wanted Sniffin’ Glue to be ripped off. And I mean, I did a fanzine, so when I read that I thought, great, fanzine T-shirts!” The official FGTH designs were particularly successful, and spawned many imitations of their own.
At one point, Hamnett met with then-Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher wearing her own t-shirt with the slogan “58% DON’T WANT PERSHING”, a reference to polls showing public opposition in the United Kingdom against the basing of Pershing missiles in the country. In 2003, at a London fashion show, Hamnett’s catwalk models wore shirts with “NO WAR, BLAIR OUT”, a reference to the looming invasion of Iraq.
More recently, models such as Naomi Campbell have appeared in Hamnett shirts bearing the slogans “USE A CONDOM” and “PEACE”.
Hamnett has since expressed scepticism that t-shirt slogans accomplish anything concrete. While she now suspects that for some, the slogans are a substitute for action, a sceptic might wonder if, having served her for so many years, they are a marketing device. The “CHOOSE LIFE” slogan, which in the context of the day was directed at drug abuse and suicide, has since been adopted by the pro-life movement, even appearing on license plates in Florida. Hamnett first ever British Fashion Awards, and in 1996, was voted Britain’s favourite designer by readers of Cosmopolitan. The company’s London shops have been designed by Norman Foster and Nigel Coates.
Beginning in 1989, with research showing pesticide poisoning in cotton-growing regions, and sweatshop labour a major part of the textiles industry, Hamnett began lobbying for major changes in the way the industry operated. After disappointment with the results, Hamnett terminated most of her licensing arrangements, and in 2005 relaunched her line under stricter ethical guidelines, including manufacturing and agricultural practices.
In 2008, Hamnett said that fashion designers participating in the London Fashion Week were racist due to what she views as increasing exclusion of black models, stating “The catwalks are full of white dogs, cosmetic companies don’t like black models – the racist bitches. I have no idea why when it’s obvious that black girls are just so genuinely much more beautiful than Caucasians, who have clearly got the short straw. Black girls have much better body shapes and it’s such a shame. I just think there should be a bit more of a balance.”